A Quiet Day in Asuka: Cycling Japan's First Capital
Long before Kyoto, and before the great temples of Nara city, the Japanese state first took shape in a small basin of rice fields and burial mounds south of…
Calm nature trips across Japan, no car needed.
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40 quiet, car-free trips built around Shrines & Temples.

Long before Kyoto, and before the great temples of Nara city, the Japanese state first took shape in a small basin of rice fields and burial mounds south of…
Eiheiji lies at Shibi, in the folded hills of Shibidani, some four ri east of Fukui.
This walk is written from a Meiji-era gazetteer of Nagato Province (新撰名勝地誌) together with fares, opening hours and access details published by the City of…
Iizaka Onsen is a spa town that never needed to reinvent itself.
Everything below rests on two sources: the official visitor pages of Inuyama Castle, for admission fees, opening hours, closed days and access, and 新撰名勝地誌, a…
The pilgrim custom of Ise is blunt about the order of things: greet the Outer Shrine first, and only then go on to the Inner.
Most Tokyo food pilgrimages end in a queue.
Jindaiji is the escape that never leaves Tokyo.
Kawagoe keeps a street of clay-walled merchant storehouses, a wooden bell tower that still sounds over the town, and a temple hall moved here from Edo Castle…
High in the forested mountains of Wakayama, south of Osaka, Koyasan is not a sight to be ticked off but a working monastic town.
Mitsumine Shrine is not a place you pass on the way to somewhere else.
Travellers bound for the north of Japan tend to follow the same well-worn shortlist, and the Shonai plain in Yamagata is rarely on it.
Mount Hodo is the flower mountain above Nagatoro — a standalone peak in Saitama's Chichibu district with an ornate shrine at its foot, a modest ropeway up its…
Mount Mitake is not an undiscovered corner — it has drawn pilgrims and hikers from the Tokyo area for centuries — but its appeal for the calm-minded traveler…
Every guide to Tokyo will send you to Mount Takao.
Mount Tsukuba stands alone.
Ask a Tokyo day-tripper about Saitama's river gorges and you will hear about Nagatoro.
Most day-trip advice from Tokyo makes you choose: a river day or a mountain day.
Naritasan Shinshoji is one of the great pilgrimage temples of eastern Japan, founded in 940 around a statue of Fudo Myoo, and it rewards the traveler who…
Natadera stands at Nata, in the old Enuma district of Kaga — today part of Komatsu in Ishikawa — and has long been counted among the great Shingon temples of…
Nikko's fame rests on two shoulders: the temple district where the World Heritage shrines cluster on the lower slopes, and the high country of Oku-Nikko with…
Nokogiriyama — "Saw Mountain" — rises straight from the Tokyo Bay coast in southern Chiba, its ridge cut into jagged teeth by centuries of stone quarrying.
Ohara is a farming valley folded into the hills north of Kyoto, a place of thatched roofs, terraced fields, and temples strung along a small river.
Tokyo is ringed by small mountains, old merchant towns, river gorges, and one island with a lighthouse — all reachable by train and bus, no rental car required.
Sado rewards travelers who refuse to hurry.
The largest burial mound in Japan sits in the middle of an ordinary suburb, and it is easy to walk straight past it.
On the Shiga side of Mount Hiei, where the mountain runs down toward Lake Biwa, there is a town built out of monks' retirements.
Deep in the mountains of northern Miyazaki, where a mountain river has cut a dark corridor through ancient rock, the town of Takachiho holds Japan's founding…
Takaoka is the kind of town most travellers ride straight past, which is exactly why it rewards the ones who step off.
Some places earn a visit with a whole itinerary.
The southern tip of the Boso Peninsula was once a pilgrim's country.
Usuki sits where its river meets the sea on Oita's east coast: a small port with a hillside of carved Buddhas a short ride inland, and a former castle town…
This article follows one day on foot from JR Uwajima Station to Uwajima Castle, the Tenshaen garden and Warei Shrine.